Saturday, November 27, 2010

Goodbye to the Yucatan

I had confirmed my return portion of the airport transfer and arrived down to a busy loading dock, as everyone at the resort leaves the same day.  After another hour-long trip to the airport, I arrived, juggled my bags to fit under the weight limit, checked in and went upstairs to stand in a lengthy security line.  One entertaining note, as we North American tourists snaked around the waiting area, was a sign that said, "It is not necessary to take off your shoes!"  Once through security, one enters the last hurrah of Mexican salesmanship - designer items, liquor and all types of chotskys.  Finally onto the plane and back through Denver, and on to San Francisco.

Chichen Itza!

As directed, I was down at the hotel lobby at 7:20 AM.  A small white van arrived soon after and I was the first passenger.  For 45 minutes we visited various resorts further north, picking up passengers.  Eventually, where we met the road west from Cancun, we all transferred to a big bus that was collecting groups of passengers from small white vans that had arrived from around the Yucatan.

On the bus, we were treated very well, with beverages including beer, and narration in English and Spanish by our guide, Hector.  We headed west toward the center of the Yucatan.  Easily we slipped into dozing.  Eventually, after a long truck west across the peninsula through featureless flatlands, we were awakened with our entrance into the town of Vallidolid.  A typical Mexican town, but on the outskirts Mayan hovels.  Soon we were at Ik Kil cenote.  We passed through a large gift shop, which I opted out of, and walked on to view the cenote where there was the opportunity to swim, with or without renting a life vest and/or a locker.  Since Ik Kil is 130 feet deep, I opted for the life vest.  And for $2 the locker.  The locker room was pleasant.


I headed down the stairs to the cenote, but did not choose the big jump, just the 5 foot jump.  Oh, pleasant relief from the heat!  I swam across the cenote, and then over to the area where vines hung down and small waterfalls descended.


We were on a tight schedule, so one tour around was sufficient.  I exited and retrieved my clothes from the locker and returned to the bus.

 From there we took a short trip to our lunch spot.  Clearly set up to handle the bus loads of tourists on their way to Chichen Itza.  But offering an excellent choice from the buffet.  We sat down to eat, and slowly made ourselves known to each other on this short excursion in a distant land.  We were entertained briefly by a dance troop.



On to Chichen Itza!  Although one of the Yucatan's largest and most accessible ruins, it actually dates from a very late period of Mayan history.




 Our guide Hector provided an excellent introduction to the site.
 


He took us to the infamous ball court and explained the intricacies of the game.




Some Mayan children who had been dogging us were eventually allowed to put on their performance of the national anthem in Mayan:



Then we were let loose to wander:






 Our bus took an exhausted group of tourists back to the coast where we were loaded into little white vans and delivered back to our resorts.  My trip was excelerated in contrast to the morning, for which I was very grateful.

Diving the cenotes, Part II

Jason picked me up at the hotel Thursday morning, along with Polo, the Mexican cave divemaster.  We drove south of Playa del Carmen a couple miles, and quickly took a right turn away from the beach.   On the way, Polo asked me if I were Catholic since, many Catholic people feel they are seeing God when they look up through the waters at the jungle and the light streaming in.  I responded that one did not have to be Catholic to feel that way!  Jason laughed.


Down a dirt road into the jungle, past a hand-painted sign "Chac-Mool" - the jaguar.  Jason paid the entrance fee, and we drove a bit further to a dirt parking lot. Jason led me down steps to the first cenote, KulKulcan, to view the prospect.  I had envisioned one of the round bottomless holes.  I had felt better when Jason told me that these were cavern dives where the bottom was within recreational dive limits.  However, the sight of the murky pool with the cavern entrance was unnerving.


Well, I had come this far - I certainly wasn't going to turn back.  But I ascended the stairs with my heart beating a bit out of control.  I hadn't felt this way since my early ocean dives.  We viewed the Chac-Mool pool which was even smaller, and headed back to the truck to get suited up.


 The cenotes are colder than the ocean, but my 3mm with booties was sufficient.  Polo explained that there was a line strung through the cave that we would follow, and that one should not descend below the line.  Touching bottom or disturbing the debris would ruin visibility.  One also had to be careful to not hit the top of the caves, especially near stalactite.  Besides good buoyancy control one should use a frog kick which is less likely to hit bottom or stir up debris.


In I went, and after Polo helped with the fins, and a last minute check, down we went.  KulkulCan has a shorter tour, with the first half back and forth near the entrance.  This is where we saw God.  It was truly a remarkable sight!


We then headed into a cavern where Polo had told me to swim beside him because we would go through a halocline.  A halocline is an effect that happens where fresh and salt water do not mix.  The cenotes are part of underground river systems in the Yucatan.  Close to the ocean salt water intrudes into the caverns.  Less dense fresh water from the land forms a layer over salt water from the ocean.  When one gets near the halocline it looks like a mirror ahead.  As one goes through, visibility becomes blurred until you reach the other side.  You can see the blurry halocline in the next two photos.



On the first dive we did not stay too long in the cavern area.


We had been the first divers in, but soon we started passing by other divers.  I was becoming comfortable with the experience, so I gave the 'ok' sign to the photographer.


After another tour around the lip of the cavern, we headed back up.


Soon we were close to breaking through the surface.


We took our surface interval and headed over to Chac-Mool.  The Chac-Mool tour was much longer.  It's interesting how quiet it is in the caves compared to the ocean.  And with no current jostling one, air supply seemed to last much longer.  They actually place a time limit on dives of 45 minutes.  I came up from the first dive with more than half a tank remaining.  Highlights of Chac-Mool included a lot more stalactites, larger caverns, a much longer tour, and an ascent into an air pocket where tree roots extended through the pocket into the water.


I was a happy camper after two great dives!

We got lunch from the nearby deli, viewed the photos and videos the young entrepreneurs had taken and headed back to the resort.

In the afternoon I wrote up my dives, prepared for the trip to Chichen Itza and started packing.  I was to be at the front of the hotel at 7:20 AM, and we would not return until late.  Saturday morning departure around 9:30 to the airport.

That night I had arranged to have dinner at the upscale restaurant at the resort.  And up-scale it was.  The food was incredible, and the service excellent.  Everything I wanted for around $45.

Photos from Mexico

Mexico 2010

Saturday, November 13, 2010

Thursday, the Cenotes

 Diving the cenotes (link to photos of my cenote dives)



Wow, diving the cenotes WAS an experience.  But note, I am finally writing about it about a month afterwards.  A hazard, apparently, is contracting swimmer's ear, a bacterial infection contracted from stagnant waters.  Whether it was the dives on Thursday, or the swimming on Friday at Ik Kil on the way to Chichen Itza, by the following Monday night, I felt the first symptoms.  Hoping it would resolve, I did not go to the doctor until Wednesday.  From there, two rounds of antibiotics, plus, on the second round, acetic acid drops, were necessary to put the infection to rest, finally, about a month later.  Meanwhile I was deaf in my right ear much of the time.  About a week after I got to the doctor, I got rear-ended on the way to work, and life has been a round of insurance forms and chiropractor visits ever since.  Thus, I am only getting back to completing this blog six weeks after my return from Mexico.

First, a bit more about general impressions.  The resort is very spacious.  Partly, children are back in school, partly it's not high season, but mainly, with the cheap Mexican labor, the resort can provide a higher level of luxury than most US resorts.  There are two phases, each with a very large pool with a swim-up bar.  The tile work in the pool, and all over is magnificent.  There are a couple phenomenal murals.  In each phase there is also a lap pool and several hot tubs.   The hottest, most humid period was when we were still experiencing the offshoots of the tropical storm.  Later in the week, it was hot, but not so bad, and not so humid.  Still, when I arrived and unpacked in my villa, I had to play with the controls a bit to get everything set right.  Eventually I found that a combination of AC and the swamp cooler did the job - not too hot, not too cold.  If you are not familiar with a swamp cooler, it is essentially a dehumidifier with a fan.  When I spent a month in Melbourne, Australia, and arrived in January when it was still 110 degrees, even though I was staying in "executive housing," the only temperature control provided was a swamp cooler.  The first couple weekends I spent lying in bed with the swamp cooler blowing over me!  Here in the Yucatan, once I got the controls adjusted, I found I was emptying the 5 gallon water bin in the swamp cooler every 24 hours.  That's for a 1300 square foot unit that has air conditioning as well.  Do the calculations to figure out how humid it was.  I think I got the humidity down to about 65%.

News note, November 14, 2010:  This morning there was a large explosion at a hotel a mile or two north of where I stayed, the Grand Riviera Princess, killing 7 people.  It was a natural gas explosion, and thoughts are that it could have been from a cooking stove, since the blast was near the hotel's restaurant, or it could have been from swamp gas that might have built up under the concrete pads.  I definitely noted that the ecological setting of my resort was questionable.  An extensive swampy area could be seen from the entrance to my villa behind the beach.  The beach is an incredible white sand, but like many beautiful flat beaches, it has received much artificial enhancement to make it attractive.   I believe the coastline of Playa del Carmen was a mangrove swamp before the resorts were developed.  So it's not surprising that gases may be festering under the artificial concrete cover.  One of the realities about Mexico.  Construction is just not to US standards, and there is an inherent increased level of risk traveling there.  Sad.  Update November 27:  they have ruled out swamp gas, but a poorly constructed cistern tank is a possibility, or a broken sewer line.

The Mexican government, often in partnership with foreign interests, has identified areas for development to attract tourists.  In the 70's, as demand grew in Europe for tropical destinations, Mexico began to develop the Yucatan.  Now the Yucatan coast is Mexico's largest tourist zone.  Some people find going to such areas repellent.  I do not care for the environmental devastation.  On the other hand, tourism brings in much needed foreign income into Mexico.  Besides people from the US, almost more Canadians visit, or winter in Mexico, and the Yucatan draws tourists from all over Europe and Central and South America.

The Royal Haciendas resort is the newest of six or seven developed by a Mexican-US partnership that developed one of the first resorts in Cancun.  There's a nice story behind this partnership.  Still I wouldn't buy here.

Geographically, the Yucatan is a fascinating area.  The Yucatan Peninsula is located completely in the tropics, and it receives the same climate influences as mainland Mexico. Cuba, Grand Cayman and Jamaica are due East of Playa del Carmen.  The main difference in the Yucatan Peninsula is the elevation. Most of the Yucatan is very flat and close to sea level. These lower elevations allow for warm days and temperate evenings all year long. You can think of the Peninsula as a big slab of limestone gently slanting into the sea. The farther south you go, the more likely you are to encounter low hills. By the same token, you must travel far offshore before you reach deep water.  Limestone is soluble in water so the Yucatan's limestone bedrock is honeycombed with caves and  sinkholes -- it's classic karst topography. Yucatan's sinkholes have a special name -- cenotes (seh-NO-tehs). Cenotes are the result of caves collapsing, forming holes in the ground with water in the bottoms of the holes. Because the limestone has so many holes in it, there are no major rivers throughout the entire Yucatan Peninsula. Water runs underground.  Cenotes are very important in Yucatan history and present life. Because of the lack of rivers, the ancient Maya took their water from cenotes. Cenotes were important in the Maya religion, being the home of gods. Sometimes humans were thrown into cenotes as sacrifices. Today underwater archeological teams are discovering many Maya artifacts in cenotes.


THE LIMESTONE IS YOUNG, GEOLOGICALLY SPEAKING

Much of the outcropping limestone in the northern Yucatan is part of the Carrillo Puerto Formation of Miocene-Pliocene age. The Miocene and Pliocene are often considered as having occurred from 23.8 to 1.8 million years ago. Along much of the Yucatan coastline you find Quaternary deposits 1.8 million years old  and younger.

THE CHICXULUB IMPACT CHANGED LIFE ON EARTH

About 65 million years ago a large asteroid or comet hit the part of the Earth that later would be occupied by the northwestern Yucatan Peninsula. The city of Mérida lies inside that zone. Today the impact zone is referred to as the Chicxulub Crater, though there is no crater or any other obvious evidence of the impact to be seen. The impact's crater is buried beneath 65 million years of sediment, much of which now has solidified to limestone. One reason the Chicxulub impact is of such interest is that it is thought to be responsible for the vast extinction of species that took place 65 million years ago. At that time dinosaurs were the Earth's most advanced form of life. The Chicxulub impact changed the Earth's weather conditions so drastically that all the dinosaurs died off. This enabled mammals to assume the dinosaur's dominant position. Had it not been for the Chicxulub impact, we humans may not have evolved as we did, or evolved at all.

The Chicxulub crater (pronounced /ˈtʃiːkʃəˌluːb/ CHEEK-shə-LOOB; Maya[tʃʼikʃuluɓ]) is an ancient impact crater buried underneath the Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico.[2] Its center is located near the town of Chicxulub, after which the crater is named.[3] The crater is more than 180 km (110 mi) in diameter, making the feature one of the largest confirmed impact structures on Earth; the impacting bolide that formed the crater was at least 10 km (6 mi) in diameter.
The crater was discovered by Glen Penfield, a geophysicist who had been working in the Yucatán while looking for oil during the late 1970s. Penfield was initially unable to obtain evidence that the unique geological feature was in fact a crater, and gave up his search. Through contact with Alan Hildebrand, Penfield was able to obtain samples that suggested it was an impact feature. Evidence for the impact origin of the crater includes shocked quartz, a gravity anomaly, and tektites in surrounding areas.
The age of the rocks and isotope analysis show that this impact structure dates from the end of the Cretaceous Period, roughly 65 million years ago. The impact associated with the crater is implicated in causing the extinction of the dinosaurs as suggested by the K–T boundary, the geological boundary between the Cretaceous and Tertiary periods, although some critics argue that the impact was not the sole reason[4] and others debate whether there was a single impact or whether the Chicxulub impactor was one of several that may have struck the Earth at around the same time. Recent evidence suggests that the impactor may have been a piece of a much larger asteroid that broke up in a collision in distant space more than 160 million years ago.[5]
In March 2010, following extensive analysis of the available evidence covering 20 years' worth of data spanning the fields of palaeontology, geochemistry, climate modelling, geophysics and sedimentology, 41 international experts from 33 institutions reviewed available evidence and concluded that the impact at Chicxulub triggered the mass extinctions during K-T boundary including those of dinosaurs.[6][7]

The impact would have caused some of the largest megatsunamis in Earth's history, reaching thousands of feet high. A cloud of super-heated dust, ash and steam would have spread from the crater, as the impactor burrowed underground in less than a second.[26] Excavated material along with pieces of the impactor, ejected out of the atmosphere by the blast, would have been heated to incandescence upon re-entry, broiling the Earth's surface and possibly igniting global wildfires; meanwhile, colossal shock waves spawned global earthquakes and volcanic eruptions.[27] The emission of dust and particles could have covered the entire surface of the Earth for several years, possibly a decade, creating a harsh environment for living things. The shock production of carbon dioxide caused by the destruction of carbonate rocks would have led to a sudden greenhouse effect.[28] Over a longer period of time, sunlight would have been blocked from reaching the surface of the earth by the dust particles in the atmosphere, cooling the surface dramatically. Photosynthesis by plants would also have been interrupted, affecting the entire food chain.[29][30] There was however a quick recovery of plants only few months after the impacts. A model of the event developed by Lomax et al. (2001) showed that net primary productivity (NPP) rates would have increased to higher than pre-impact levels because of the high carbon dioxide concentrations, as growing leaves have a higher NPP than mature leaves.[31]


Sunday, October 17, 2010

Wednesday, Cozumel

Sorry for the delay in posting.  I've been fighting the ear infection I acquired diving the Cenotes - see tomorrow's post.  So this day's blog was written after my return.


So..Cozumel...I appeared at Jason's shack around 8 AM and was a bit surprised to hear I'd be going to Cozumel to meet up with a different dive operation.  But Jason walked me down to the ferry dock, through picking up the ticket and standing in line.


There we were joined by Patrice, another divemaster, who was accompanying a diver to Cozumel.  Patrice was from France, but had lived in the US, but now in Mexico.  He had been a wine merchant in France.  His diver was a doctor from Mississippi.  I guess someone has to live there.  Eventually I found out she had done most of her diving in Okinawa during her military service.


Eventually we boarded the ferry and headed to the top deck.  As usual, on dives, I was so focused on the upcoming dive, that the ferry trip sort of passed me by.  Most of our fellow passengers were Mexicans on vacation. You could not see Cozumel from the mainland - it's about 15 miles away.  Immediately when we landed, the dive boat was docked at the pier and we headed there, boarded and quickly took off.




It was the four of us diving - Patrice, his diver, the Mexican divemaster and me.  We headed south along the waterfront to a spot dubbed "<name of divemaster>'s reef" - really the end of Santa Rosa wall.  I had been worried that a wall would be a precipice.  But it sounded like it was more of a steep slope, which would be ok with me.

We jumped off the boat.


and  headed down to a large coral head.



It was a drift dive.


Frankly, with all the stimulus of this trip, it is hard to remember particulars other than, in one way it was so impressive - total visibility, typical Caribbean flora and fauna - but totally wonderful - the dive I had always wanted to take.
 


The next dive - Paradise Reef - north of the first, another drift dive, was even more impressive.  My only disappointment was not seeing larger marine beings.  I think some of the scarcity was due to the recent storm.  And indeed, that is why we did not dive Santa Rosa wall.  For this reason, I would definitely want to return during non-hurricane season.


We surfaced on a line the divemaster launched to the surface and headed back to the dive shop, where a rooftop restaurant provided a much-appreciated lunch in a scenic location - by the water, under a thatched roof.  Afterward, we boarded the boat and were taken back to the ferry terminal. We were given a time to be back for the ferry and let loose to explore town.  I walked around the large square, assaulted by the vendors who have congregated to serve the cruise ships, but enjoying the young Mayan families.  Finally I bought a coke, just to ease the heat, and started back to the ferry.  Just then we heard cannon or rifle shots.  By the time I returned to the ferry terminal, a procession was passing.  The typical Catholic banners and the faithful, a band.  They proceeded onto the dock and boarded a small ship which later headed north.  It was the day of the saint of the fisherman.


I headed back onto the ferry and onto the top deck where I found Patrice.  This leg of the journey had a band heading to work on the mainland who played for the 40 minute transit.  I got off the ferry and walked the 2 blocks to opposite the bus terminal where Jason was waiting.  Today he drove me back to the resort.  Though I had reserved the shuttle bus, I was not about to turn down a private shuttle.

Off to dinner and early to bed for the diving on the next day - the Cenotes!